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Monthly Archives : December 2014

Facial Plastic Surgery Trends and Predictions for 2015

charlottes book fall beauty wellness treatment

Believe it or not, facial plastic surgery, like fashion, is subject to trends. What’s “hot” changes constantly, and who wants which procedure changes as well. Over the past few months, it seems that demand for liquid surgery (without the knife) has increased, and men are beginning to turn up for tweaking more frequently. There are also some exciting new products waiting for the FDA nod in 2015. Here’s what I have on my radar for the year to come.

Liquid Courage

Basically, anything non-surgical, or “liquid” is exploding in popularity in my office. The two most common, non-surgical “liquid” procedures I’ve seen a major increase in are Liquid Rhinoplasty and the Liquid Facelift. At this time last year, I was performing about 1 Liquid Rhinoplasty per month. Now, it’s more like 1 or 2 per week!

In these “liquid” non-surgical procedures, a combination of Botox and various facial fillers are injected to achieve the desired result without a scalpel. In the right candidate, a Liquid Rhinoplasty can even out irregularities along the bridge of the nose, raise the nasal bridge, or camouflage a dorsal hump on the profile view. Similarly, in a Liquid Facelift, a combination of Botox and filler is used to turn back time, rejuvenate the area around the eyes and mouth, erase fine lines and wrinkles, and replace the volume that our faces tend to lose with time. During a liquid procedure, ice is used to numb the skin, and small needles are used to inject filler and/or Botox. Not all nose concerns are amenable to Liquid, non-surgical, Rhinoplasty or Facelift, but if you are among the lucky (or unlucky, depending upon how you look at it), you can skip the pain and recovery of surgery. Results are dramatic and instant, and so is the savings!

Menaissance

Over the past few months, I’ve seen a serious increase in the number of men coming in for cosmetic pick-me-ups, and I expect the trend to continue in 2015. To what do we owe this “BRO-tox Boom?” When I ask, the main reason men report seeking out cosmetic surgery treatments is to appear younger at work. It seems that the combination of increased availability of easy outpatient treatments, wider cultural acceptance of cosmetic procedures, and an increased emphasis on the value of youth in the workforce has fueled a “menaissance” in facial plastic surgery.

The American Society of Plastic Surgeons has reported that the number of men seeking Botox has increased 310 percent since 2000, and I’ve seen a similar increase with many other facial plastic surgery procedures, including facial filler injection, laser treatments, rhinoplasty, and neck liposuction. I would guestimate that three years ago, less than 10% of my patients were men. Presently, I would say that around 30% are.

On the Horizon

Get ready for this: A needleless Botox may receive FDA approval in 2015. There is a new, investigational, formulation of botulinum toxin type A that uses a proprietary peptide technology for delivery across the skin. It’s not your mother’s wrinkle cream, it’s a Botox cream!  The topical treatment will still need to be applied by medical personnel in a doctor’s office, so it’s not a do-it-yourself home treatment. However, it may be useful for people who are afraid of needles, or for large area Botox treatments, such as treatments for excessive underarm perspiration (Yes, you can do that!).

Another cosmetic advancement on the horizon: New fat-melting injections await FDA approval in 2015. Currently in clinical trials, this treatment shrinks fat cells with targeted injections. Once injected, the drug activates receptors within fat cells and triggers the breakdown of triglycerides, causing the cells to lose volume. Translation? Bye bye flab, hello fab. Stay tuned!

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Fred Pirkey on Designing Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté

The way our skin looks after a facial at Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté is reason enough to visit the spa over and over and again. It is icing the on the cake, then, that entering the space makes us feel as if we’ve been transported to a stunning Moroccan riad. The gorgeous hanging lanterns…the lush textiles of the seating nook…not to mention the stone wall fountain.

We are so in love with the look and feel of the spa that we decided to pick the brain of the man who designed it, Fred Pirkey. Fred shared some of his design wisdom with us, and told us how Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté came to life.

Fred Pirkey of Salon Ishi Discusses Design, Color & Beauty

When designing environments I always ask people their birth date. It gives me their sun sign, and I can also quickly add their numbers of the month and day, with the current year, to see where they are in life cycles. It gives a quick, though very general, idea of who they are and where they are in life. This allows me a small insight into how to make them happy.

fred-pirkey-design-Yasmine-Djerradine-institut-de-beauteThe Right Color Palate

People’s sun signs give a range of color that typically suit them. It’s as if the time of the year and the colors of the season outside is the range that they are attracted to, if not their favorite colors. This isn’t true in all cases, though. Sun signs are only a part of a person’s makeup, and other influences could make someone’s color preferences very uncharacteristic for his or her sun sign. Environment and ethnic background are important factors as well. Depending on skin tone, hair color and eye color, you can pick hues that you not only like but that also flatter you. This opens up all kinds of choices. Then there are balances, opposites or complimentary colors you can to the mix.

When considering color for your home or business you want to think about what makes you look good. Which colors do you put on to make you feel your best? These are the colors you should have in your surroundings. It’s no different than the clothes you choose. Your home and business are backgrounds – the colors you find yourself surrounded by enhance your appearance. Your surroundings are your stage. They should glow in the right color range to bring out the color in your eyes and make your skin reflect complementary tones in the reflected light.

Decor is a Reflection of You

Yasmine’s spa was designed to reflect who she is: A play of Arabic designs and high tech services. Very chic, with a richness of pattern/textures. Arabic design and the juxtaposition of designs has always inspired me. And Yasmine is inspiring and a beautiful person.

Yasmine’s father was from Algeria and her mother from France, so she has this mix about her. With her coloring and being a libra, she can find her balance with almost any combination. She’s brunette that naturally highlights gold, with warm colored skin and aqua eyes…she is a mix of texture.

I gathered all the Moroccan details I could find, and fortunately had a Moroccan friend who was importing decorative items. He secured the fountain and bathroom tiles. The sound of water is so soothing and is typical in the welcoming area of an Arabic home. Also, the scale and roughness of the fountain’s stone and carving gave a focal point. The bathroom was small, so I wanted it to be a special experience. I had intensely studied books on tile shaped and patterns and had my favorites. We were also able to have tiles carved with her logo as part of the design. When you play with many patterns, as we did, it takes time to notice all of the subtleties.

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Remodeling Facial at Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté Spa

This holiday season we are taking the opportunity to repost this in-depth review of the Remodeling Facial at NYC spa Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté. If you are stumped about what to get the girl (or guy) who has everything, your favorite beauty junkie or your mother or wife who deserve a little luxury, a gift certificate for this world class treatment cannot be beat.

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remodeling-facial-yasmine-djerradine-spaFirst Impressions

Your first trip to Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté can be a curious thing…a bit like entering a secret club. You walk through a building lobby to a simple white door that in no way belies the oasis waiting for you behind it.

But an oasis it is. The Moroccan-themed skin care mecca is a lush, intimate space filled with ornate hanging lanterns, exquisite tile work…and some of the best facialists in town. I saw Lilly for a 90 minute Remodeling Facial, the spa’s hallmark treatment. Once shown to the immaculate treatment room I was given a stylish pinstriped robe to change into – a welcome departure from the plush housewife-type usually given at spas. Lilly pulled my hair back in a headband and got to work.

The Treatment

A staple of spa facials is steaming to open pores and ready skin for extractions. Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté skips the steam, though, as it can be too harsh for more sensitive or reactive skin types. Instead, Lilly cleansed my face and then applied a mixture of baking soda and Biologique Recherche’s purifying Mask Vivant to my face. Can a mask adequately replace steaming as a pore opener, you ask? Oui! Mask Vivant is a probiotic mask packed with live yeast extracts, amino acids and Vitamin B. It deeply cleanses pores and dissolves blackheads. A few minutes in the mask and my pores were open and extraction-ready.

A Note On The Top Notes

A personal preference that was pleasantly appeased during my treatment was the overall olfactory experience. I’ve long abhorred super perfumy-flowery scented skin care products. I’ve always felt that putting fake-smelling schmutz on clean skin was akin to dirtying my skin up again. The scents of the products used at Yasmine Djerradine Spa are the antithesis of that fake-floral. Each product smelled clean, earthy…almost medicinal. This may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but I loved it. Even the lotion Lilly used for my shoulder massage (more on that in a bit) was very lightly scented.

Ex-Squeeze Me

Lilly’s extraction technique was gentle yet thorough. She used lancets, a comedone extractor, and of course her fingertips. However, when she squeezed a spot, it wasn’t the usual long, hard squeeze that many facialists use to get all of the gunk (technical term) out. Rather, she administered several small, quick squeezes. This gentler approach left my pale skin less red and spotted than it usually is post-facial. As I mentioned, Lilly also gave me a wonderful shoulder massage before starting the remodeling portion of the facial. This was most welcome as I hold nearly all of my tension between my shoulder blades.

Electric Youth

With the deep cleansing done, it was time for the remodeling. If you’ve never had a remodeling facial, it is thus called because it uses electric current to revitalize, reshape and tone the muscles and skin of the face, as well as activate circulation. It’s totally painless…in fact, this portion of the facial was the most relaxing. I fell asleep for most of it! Unlike the metal prongs used in other microcurrent facials, the machine Lilly used was equipped with thick, round sponges. Lilly massaged my face continuously with these, concentrating on the contour of my jaw, around my eyes, etc. Because she was constantly massaging my face with the pads, it was very soothing…hypnotic, really. The result was more pronounced bone structure, reduced puffiness and a youthful glow. Magnifique!

Imparted Wisdom

While complimenting me on the overall condition of my skin, Lilly did say I was “congested” around my nose and chin. Go tell it on the mountain – I’ve been dealing with that for decades! She offered some new advice on this old problem, however: Don’t use a moisturizer with SPF in it as the first layer you put on your skin. The SPF will clog your pores, leading to congestion. She advised applying a moisturizer without SPF first, so it would lay between my skin and the sunscreen, therefore preventing the SPF from clogging my pores. Good to know!

Parting Gift

Lilly did ask me what products I currently use on my skin, but there was no hard sell at the end of my treatment. Though I appreciated this, I’ve yet to leave a facial empty-handed, so I made sure to pick up the Biologique Recherche cult favorite, P50V. This is the toner to end all toners that skin-savvy sisters across the globe are gaga over. I already love mist toners like Vine’sCare Water and Institut Esthederm’s Eau Cellulaire, so I thought it wise to add this more astringent-type toner to my collection.

If you are looking for a special treat for yourself or another, or a solid surgery and injectable-avoidance strategy, the Remodeling Facial at Yasmine Djerradine Institut de Beauté will not disappoint.

BY: CLAIRE MCCORMACK @clairemcmack

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Interview With Gilah Guroivtsch of GGSkin and GGCandle

“Let the light from these candles be a reminder of the bright light within you.”

- Gilah Guroivtsch 

gilah-guroivtsch-ggskin-ggcandlePerhaps you’ve noticed…we now live in the world of candles with triple digit price tags. While these candles look and smell great, it seems slightly insane to take a flame to such a costly item. I was therefore elated when, a few years ago, my dear friend Isabel introduced me to GGCandles. Not only do these candles smell fantastic and last for months, but they also serve a higher purpose and do it all for a fraction of the cost of these fancier candles. I spoke with Gilah Guroivtsch, creator of GGCandles, about her creative process and how to pick the perfect candle.

TB: As an esthetician and now talented candle maker, how did your skin care practice inspire you to create candles?

GG: I have been a practicing esthetician for almost two decades. I’m known for my signature facials that I created years ago that incorporate my healing arts into each treatment. All my treatments have always been customized for each individual – for the needs of the skin at that moment. As a single mother of two young girls, at times I found it very difficult to provide for them. This led me to think out of the box with my business. One day I was in a treatment, and as always, burning a random candle. I was staring at the candlelight and thought, what if I made my own candles? I could start an all natural environmentally friendly line.

Chakra Energy Candles

I remember thinking how great it would be to create a chakra energy candle to support the individual energies of each client I was treating. After many sleepless nights and MANY pounds of soy wax, my candles began to come to life. After 4 years of non-stop work, I have created a collection of healing candles that include The Seven Chakras Series as well as a general line of seasonal and holiday candles. I began to use the candles while working on clients and it did not take long before my clients took a liking to them and started asking how they could buy them.

TB: How do you create the “recipes” for your healing formulas?

GG: My passion is in the healing candles. After many years of studying the seven chakra energies, it was very important to get the right fragrances to support the different energy points. Aromatherapy is a form of alternative medicine that uses plant materials and aromatic plant oils, including essential oils and other aromatic compounds, for the purpose of altering one’s mood, cognitive, psychological and/or physical wellbeing. We have a multitude of senses. The five traditionally recognized are sight, hearing, taste, touch and smell. Smell, the olfaction, is the only sense that goes straight to the brain. That’s why, in the most simplest way of explaining the aromatherapy, it has such an instant effect. A well-chosen energy candle can make a huge difference in how my clients are feeling during a treatment – or anywhere else for that matter. The chakra energies are referred to by name, color or number. GGCandles are all clearly labeled for each one.

TB: When choosing a candle, should people be guided by what they think they need or by what scent they are drawn to? For instance, I love the Abundance candle. Is this because I am searching for abundance in life?

GG: Everyday I am asked how to pick the right candle, or asked to pick the one I think is right for a client. I think that usually you are attracted to some fragrances more than others, and that is usually the chakra energy point where you need support. They are all designed for you to easily understand and learn about the chakras. You might not be in the mood for an ancient patchouli, but if your first chakra is in need of support, you might automatically be attracted to it. The Second Chakra Abundance Candle is one of the most popular as we all need support in our creative, emotional fulfillment, riches and balance departments. This support might make a big difference in all these different aspects. When you believe, it all happens. I always recommend choosing the candle that most appeals to you, whatever the name, color or fragrance. Once you learn more about the different energies and healing fragrances, you will know which one is for you.

TB: Any new candles you’re excited about and/or working on?

GG: As the light is shared, I’m inspired to create new candles. I’m happy to say that cold winter months are known to be the high season for candle burning. I am working on a new candle called Selfie that will be out for Valentines Day 2015. It is a candle meant to boost self-esteem and self-love that we so often seam to loose. The fragrances are going to support the different energy points to lift and bring you up.

After many years of hard work, today GGCandles are sold around the world. GGCandles are all natural soy, phthalate free and fragrance oil infused with essential oils. All our candles are white (no dyes), have a cotton wick and are hand poured to assure the highest quality.

The next few days are very busy, shipping out last minute holiday orders and preparing for a private event at The New York Sotheby’s holiday fair.

To order these fabulous candles for yourself, visit Gilah’s website.

BY: CLAIRE MCCORMACK @clairemcmack

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Philip Kingsley Winter Hair Resolutions

philip kingsley healthy hair resolutions

During December I am inundated with questions from magazines regarding maintaining hair health in the winter. This isn’t the case with my patients, mind you, who come en masse to my clinics during January with hair that has been subjected to various assaults over the holiday season. It seems that many (including my wife and 2 daughters!) throw caution to the wind during this time, choosing to suffer the consequences afterwards. I am hoping this article has caught your attention early enough so you can avoid the January hair blues this year. In this month’s article I am sharing my PRE New Years Resolutions so you can toast in 2015 with beautiful, healthy locks.

CONDITION. And correctly!

Conditioner is a vital component of any hair care regime. It isn’t simply a devise to mask problems, but a well-formulated one will help restore health to your hair and treat brittleness and dryness. However, many people – especially those with fine hair – steer clear of using conditioner as they find it weighs their hair down. To avoid this, simply apply it to your mid-lengths and ends only. Contrary to the ‘all over’ application I frequently encounter at hair salons, conditioner is never meant to touch your roots. They don’t need it and it will indeed create limpness.

General Health

Hair is an excellent barometer of general health – with flus, high fevers and stomach bugs frequently affecting the hair growth cycle. This can result in mass hair shedding 6-8 weeks later and may last as long as 6 weeks depending on the severity and duration of the illness. While there is no fool-proof way to avoid getting sick, I strongly suggest you ask your doctor about getting a flu shot. It takes a mere few seconds and may help you avoid a serious hair blip.

Bleaching

December is one of the busiest times for salons in terms of hair processing. Who doesn’t like to have a head of freshly done colour for Christmas and New Years!? While you may time this quite well after your last appointment, leaving at least 6 weeks in-between, this isn’t always possible. Quite commonly, it is much less and this can lead to overlapping of previously done colour, resulting in breakage near the root area. To strengthen your hair pre-colour, prep it a few days before a salon visit with my pre-shampoo conditioning treatment, Elasticizer, and then again a few days after. You can also discuss your concerns with your stylist so that they are even more cautious than usual.

Split Ends

It may well be the season to be jolly, but it is also the season of blow-dryer tomfoolery, sizzling styling tongues and haphazard de-tangling. The result? A frightful case of split ends. Firstly, take a look at your ends (yes, right now). If you see splits occurring, make an appointment to see your stylist ASAP. If you leave them, they can split all the way up the hair shaft and cause a great deal of damage. Contrary to popular belief, split ends cannot be mended – and the only cure is to snip them off. To avoid them in the first place, choose brushes with widely spaced and padded plastic prongs, always apply a detangling spray (Daily Damage Defence) before combing, and be sure to detangle starting at your ends – never your roots. Also, limit your use of hair straighteners to twice a week, and use a heat protective conditioning serum, like my Straight Hair, when doing so.

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