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Expert Tips and Products for Eye Makeup Application: Brows, Lashes & Lids

perfect eye makeup

Great Brows

Great brows are the first step to gorgeous eye makeup. When properly groomed and filled-in, they lift the eye and make you look years younger. To discover your ideal brow shape, lay a pencil next to your nostril reaching up to your brows. Brows should start at the spot where the pencil hits. Then angle the pencil to the outer corner of your eye to see where your brows should end.

Brow Shaping

It is crucial to get your brows shaped by someone skilled. After having them done professionally, you can tweeze new hairs as they come in. Tweezing is most precise, but I recommend at least some waxing, to remove the fine blonde hairs under the brow. Cleaning these up brightens the eye and helps shadow go on smoother.

Thin Brows

Many people’s brows are too thin and/or short. When thin was in, in the 60s and again in the 90s, women over-tweezed, and now their brows won’t fully grow back. You want them look thicker yet still natural. Many women use a pencil that’s too dark. A taupe pencil works on everyone. Brenda Christian’s Universal Brow Definer is a great choice! Follow this with her Perfect Brow Gel to hold everything in place.

Thick Brows

You may be attached to your full brows, but if they are too full they can look heavy and weigh the eye down. It is important to give brows proper shape and balance for your face.

Proper Eye Makeup Application

Many women don’t know how to do eye makeup. Either they wear hardly any for fear of doing it wrong, or they put on the wrong colors confidently, thinking it looks good. The biggest offense is sparkly, frosty shadow- it makes eyelids look wrinkled. Also, avoid cream shadow – it looks oily on the lids.

Powder Shadows are Best. Here is My Foolproof Way to Apply it:

  • Apply a base/primer on the lid to cover undertone colors and brighten the eye. I use my Camoflauge Eye Disguise Concealer (part of my Beauty Ammo Kit).
  • Apply base eyeshadow. Choose a base color that isn’t too light (think 60s dated light pink) or too dark. It should be close to your skin tone. A pinky-peachy-sunset color is universally flattering. Apply it to entire lid with a fat shadow brush that you use only for base shadow. If you apply other colors with that brush, the next time you apply base shadow the other colors will still be on the brush and the base color won’t go on properly.
  • Apply a crease color to the outer 1/3 of the eye and across the whole crease. Most women apply crease shadow too low, which ends up “closing” the eye. Using an angled shadow brush, sweep it up onto the brow bone, and blend it well after. My favorite crease shadow color is a caramel-light-mocha, more bronze than brown with a hint of peach. It looks great with any clothing, eye color and doesn’t distract from features.
  • Stay away from purple, green and plain brown for crease colors. Most purples make your eyes look red, greens can look dated and browns are just dull.
  • Navy works as liner. Line upper and lower eye with a pencil, then go over it to set it with a dark navy shadow. Use navy with some shimmer for nighttime, but only as liner applied with a stiff tiny angle brush.
  • For night, most women look best in the same shadows they use for daytime, but applied with a heavier hand and always well-blended. For a smoky eye, apply navy to the outer third and around the crease, then add black liner in pencil shadow or liquid. Because pencil liner can be oily, it is important to go back over it with shadow to set it and give more staying power.

No Eye is Complete Without Mascara

One of the best selling mascaras (not naming names!) is one of the worst looking on. I can always spot it on someone – their lashes look like frog legs! It is stiff, clumpy and requires several coats. I also dislike waterproof mascara as it is so hard to remove and so harsh on lashes. Use mascara that stays soft on your lashes. Always do a couple coats, and apply a lash conditioner/thickener underneath to make lashes look fuller, yet soft and conditioned.

Expert Hair & Scalp Products & Treatments: Promote Healthy Hair & Fight Hair Loss at the Philip Kinglsey Trichological Institute

Philip Kingsley Trichological Institute

Certain physical attributes can significantly elevate a person’s appearance. Say you were not blessed with modelesque bone structure. There are several other features (skin, brows, teeth…) the optimization of which (clear & glowing skin, well-shaped brows, straight, white teeth…) can still land you firmly in “10″ territory. Probably the most notable of these features is hair. Shiny, bouncy, Breck-girl hair makes a world of difference on anyone. As a low-maintenance gal, I relied on my high-quality (read: expensive) hair cut and color to compensate for the makeup I didn’t bother applying, the accessories I didn’t bother wearing, etc. Imagine my despair, then, when I realized my hair was falling out at an alarming rate. It was devastating and stressful…not to mention embarrassing.

Hair Loss & Thinning

Why? Why, oh, why was this happening to me? Well, the body considers hair a “non-essential” tissue, so the brain will not send nourishment to it if requirements elsewhere in the body are not being met. This can result in hair loss and/or thinning, as well as dry, brittle and lifeless hair. Additionally, (unfortunately) hair loss in women is a more complex problem than it is in men because of all the different factors at work:

  • Diet
  • Stress level
  • Genetic predisposition
  • Hormones

Poor Diet & High Stress Levels

I was struggling on all these fronts. Simultaneously completing my MBA, working part time and caring for my two young children had led to me often neglecting the most basic self-care. My diet was awful: I grabbed food on the go, never paying attention to eating a well-balanced diet. My stress levels were sky high and sleep was but a stranger. Although I felt run down and depleted, I also felt too busy to do much about it.

The Last Straw

My attitude quickly changed once my hair started to fill my shower drain…every day. Is that my scalp I see in the mirror?!?! My body was alerting me that the status-quo was not working, and I could no longer not deal with it. On top of my hair shedding, my scalp suddenly became extremely dry and flaky for the first time in my life. So now my suddenly visible scalp had become quite unsightly. It was clearly time to take action. I proceeded to purchase every scalp and hair loss product under the sun, from Apple Cider Vinegar to Zinc supplements. Still, I was not seeing any real results. Time for another tactic.

I Took The First Step

I made an appointment at The Philip Kingsley Trichological Institute in New York City, knowing that they specialize in hair and scalp health. The Institute is a hidden gem of hair health, tucked away in midtown Manhattan. It is not a spa or a flashy full-service salon; it is a no-frills hair and scalp treatment center. I was comforted by the straightforward professionalism and “clinical” setting; I knew they were going to go beyond scalp deep to deal with my issues. My visit was two-part. First, I met with trichologist Elizabeth Cunnane-Philips. This was an in-depth interview, just shy of a therapy session. Liz conducted a thorough investigation into my life, asking about:

  • Overall health
  • Family history
  • Diet/nutrition
  • Lifestyle

Her expertise and depth of knowledge were immediately apparent. Though she was a consummate professional and listened matter-of-factly to all I said, there was an air of compassion to our meeting which I really appreciated. When she asked me (rhetorically) where the protein was in my diet (surprise…there wasn’t any), it wasn’t a judgment, but a dose of tough love. Philip Kingsley takes a holistic approach to hair and scalp issues, treating the underlying causes as well as the appearance your hair/scalp. My diet was my biggest issue – woefully deficient in protein. And iron. And breakfast. To discover what else may be amiss (thyroid problems, deficiencies, etc.), Liz recommended a comprehensive series of blood tests, the results of which I would report back to her.

The Examination

She then examined my hair and scalp under a large magnifying glass. My scalp was inflamed, flaky and altogether unhappy. An inflamed scalp can often go hand-in-hand with hair loss, and can lead to even more hair loss if left untreated. Based on what she observed, Liz wrote up a personalized product list to be used during my treatment – the second part of my visit.

The Treatment

For my treatment, I met with another trichologist, Stephen Pullan. Where Liz was tough love, Stephen was kid gloves. His healing hands put the “treat” in treatment. After expertly applying an exfoliating scalp mask (to remove “debris” from my scalp), Stephen started squeezing a bottle of white goop onto my hair. He said it was Elasticizer diluted with water to make it easier to apply. Brilliant- I learned a new trick! My hour-long treatment included a divine 10 minute head and neck massage from Stephen, as well as time under a scalp steamer: Just like the helmet dryers used in salons, but with STEAM! I can’t begin to describe how soothing and restorative it felt. After steaming, I was put under infrared lamps, then shampooed and rinsed.

TO BE CONTINUED….

Beach & Summer Hair Care Products & Styles to Keep Your Locks Looking Lovely

hair care at the beach

Nothing is better than the warm sun and fresh air after you’ve been trapped inside avoiding the extreme cold that we’ve experienced this winter. While there’s no need for all the layers of clothing on the beach, you do have to layer product to protect your hair. If you don’t, intense sun and salt water will dry your hair out.

Going to the Beach Should be Glamorous

Beyond big sunglasses, think updo or bun for longer hair, slicked back for short hair. Wet your hair and spray it with Vine Minus Ion Care Water, it works as a driver for other products, depositing them into the hair shaft. Coat your hair with conditioner like, Caretico Moist Bounce Treatment then layer it with Arimino Aqua Moisture. The silicone based Aqua Moisture acts as a sealer, locking in the treatment and keeping your hair from wicking up the salt water. S-Heart-S Scalp Brush Mini is perfect for applying products and is designed not to stress the hair, even when it’s wet. For short hair, just brush it neatly back, with or without a part. For longer hair, twist it into a chic bun after brushing.

Try Braids

You can also make braids and wrap them around your head for a more exotic look. All sorts of fun looks are possible with braids. It’s a good time to experiment with creating new styles that you can incorporate into your life back home. If you just have to have your hair blowing in the breeze…wear a hat or cap. Keeping the sun’s rays off your hair helps keep it in good condition.

Use a Gentle Shampoo

There’s little need to shampoo on a daily basis. If cleansing is needed use a gentle shampoo- Caretrico Moisture Bounce Shampoo is a really good choice. It nourishes without weighing your hair down. Use conditioner or treatment only daily. Oils work as cleaners too. Then, rinse, rinse, rinse.

Give Blow Dryers and Curling Irons a Rest

Give your hair a break from blow dryers and curling irons…let it dry naturally. Work the smallest amount of Aqua Moisture in your hands and lightly touch it throughout your hair, starting at the ends. It adds shine and tames any unruly hair.

New Year’s Skin and Hair Care Resolution

new years skin and hair care

Today and tomorrow may be your last time to relax before 2014 officially starts. Then it’s back to school…back to work…back to life…back to reality…

Still looking for some inspiration to get the New Year off to a grand start? Start with you! This is a great time to take care of yourself, even if you just set aside 10 minutes to do so. You can even multi-task to make the most of those minutes. Read on to find out how.

Relaxing Facial Masks for Perfect Pampering

Start with a face mask—even if your skin is pitch perfect. Any complexion can benefit from a moisturizing face mask once a week during the winter months. Doing so can launch your visage to the next level of dewy youthfulness.

Elemis’ Exotic Cream Moisturising Mask is an excellent choice for face and neck.

If your skin is stressed and/or sensitive, Juvena’s Specialist Moisture Plus Gel Mask is the ideal choice. This multi-tasking treatment can also be used as a lip balm!

If you don’t even have ten minutes because you’re running out of the house for a cocktail party or dinner, try Juvena’s Specialist Instant Optimal Look Mask. The name may be a mouthful, but in just five minutes it will give you an instant lift and glow. This is the Travel Beauty travel mask of choice.

Hair & Scalp Treatments for Your Tresses

While your face mask is gelling, turn your attention to your hair and scalp.

Try Philip Kingsley’s Elasticizer right now! We can’t recommend this product enough, especially if you highlight, bleach or chemically process your hair. This is a must at least twice a week. You can sleep in it; work out in it and even golf with it in. This intensive moisturizing treatment is magic!

We also recommend Caretrico’s Moist Bounce Treatment. This lightweight conditioner is ideal for dry and/or color treated hair. It works well as a deep conditioning treatment or mask. Those with thick, curly hair can also use this as a defrizzing and curl-defining leave-in conditioner.

Eye Masks

Feeling a little bit of champ-shame about how much you drank (not to mention ate) this holiday season? Copious consumption could leave your eyes puffy and your skin sallow. No problem! Here are a couple of instant eye pick-me-ups that will get you going in the right direction:

Institut Esthederm’s Repair System Eye Contour Lift Patches are fast penetrating patches that target all concerns of the eye area: bags, shadows, wrinkles, sagging skin and swelling. In as little as 6 minutes a few days a week, you can take years off your eye area.

Bliss’ Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Eye Mask will also do the trick. For extra de-puffing power, chill the dual chamber packet in the refrigerator for up to 5 minutes prior to application.

Mustache, Sideburns, Chin Hairs, Treasure Trail, etc.

While you’re de-puffing your eyes, you can defuzz your thighs (and other bits). We have addressed this before in several truncated social updates, but we feel compelled to delve a bit deeper into this topic. Even if you typically frequent a spa to wax all of the above-mentioned areas, it is a good idea to have Bliss Poetic Waxing Strips for Face and Body on hand at all times. These do-it-yourself strips are made with spa quality wax, and are completely idiot proof. They are priceless when you’re in a rush, on the go or just returned from the spa, realized they missed a spot and heading to the airport in three hours (we can’t be the only ones).

And not to harp, but if you think that a blond mustache is ok, we are here to kindly remind you that it is not. We are telling you because we care…and because mom probably can’t spot your ‘stache during your FaceTime chats.

We hope you take the time to indulge in one, some or all of these personal care pick-me-ups. Even a few minutes of me-time can transform your mood and outlook from hung-over to happy-go-lucky. For more tips, tricks and tools to perfect your look, find us on FacebookTwitter and Instagram!

Foundation Information: Wear It Well

How to apply liquid foundation

To Wear Or Not To Wear?

Foundation is one of the most important steps of makeup application (after my Beauty Ammo Kit – more on that in a bit). Getting the color right is crucial. If you are trusting the wrong lighting, wrong salesperson, or wrong formula, there is a lot of room for error. In my 20 years of custom blending foundations, here is what I’ve found:

Many formulas are too yellow. One way to correct this is add a small amount of fuchsia toner to a foundation. Ideally, you want an equal amount of pink and yellow in your skin, and I often have to “de-orange” women’s foundation.

Most women don’t want to look too pale, and there can be added issues like rosacea or freckles, on top of fair skin. Do you go lighter like the base, darker like the freckles or somewhere in between?  Most women want some color in their skin, and look best with a slightly darker formula.

I prefer an oil-free liquid formula: They are easiest to apply and look most natural.

How To Apply

Another mistake women make is blending foundation in their fingers. It ends up looking and feeling too heavy on the skin, and if the color isn’t perfect to begin with, it will sit on top of the skin. It’s best to use a sponge to blend foundation in. You want to get the coverage you need while looking like you have nothing on. Dot the foundation formula on your nose, forehead, chin and on each cheek, and then blend it all in with the sponge. The right color liquid foundation, correctly applied with a sponge, is the secret to beautiful skin. When your skin looks great, you can get away with wearing a lot less make up. One more secret? My Beauty Ammo Kit.

Beauty Ammo Kit: Your Eye Area Arsenal

My 3 step Beauty Ammo Kit is all you need for a flawless eye area. Here’s why:

Most eye creams just absorb into your skin. If you follow with concealer, powder or foundation, the makeup collects in the fine lines and actually makes your wrinkles more pronounced.

  • Step 1 of the Beauty Ammo Kit, Collagen Eye Mask, is a thick, rich base that stays on all day. It contains collagen and shea butter to provide serious hydration.
  • Step 2, Line Putty, goes right on top of the Collagen Eye Mask, and fills in fine lines while it soothes skin with chamomile and witch hazel.
  • Step 3 is my Dual Action Concealer. Once you have the rich base provided by steps 1 and 2, you can use a lot more concealer to get the coverage you need without worrying about it caking, creasing and making fine lines look worse. You can also use the concealer on your eyelid as a great base for your eye shadow.

Be sure to check out the rest of the Travel Beauty Blog for more tips on getting great-looking skin.