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Tag Archives : Concealer

Questioning Yellow Based Foundations

Having worked on thousands of women, I can often identify certain brands of foundation solely based on their distinct yellow hue on my clients’ skin. Many luxury brands offer a sea of different variations of yellow. Though yellow tones work well on Asian women, most of my clientele is Caucasian and with few exceptions have more pink in their skin. Ideally, an equal amount of pink and yellow is needed for a balanced, healthy glow.

Foundation 101

I have been custom blending foundation formulas for over 20 years, and currently add fuchsia toner to almost every single one because it cuts the yellow in the skin and subtly adds pink, which looks healthier and less jaundice-like. Almost every woman that sits in my chair has a yellow formula foundation like I am describing. When I remove it and show them the difference that adding pink makes, they are stunned! The problem is there are far too many formulas on the market that shouldn’t be available to anyone. Because of this, purchasing foundation at a department store is very risky. So much so that only one in ten of my clients is wearing a foundation that is appropriate for her skin tone. I also like to go a tiny bit on the darker side to give clients a little more color in addition to adding pink which achieves a rosier bronze glow.

Bonzers and Powders

The same is true of bronzers and translucent powders so I have created one that is more pink-toned as well. When worn over my custom blended foundation it adds another layer of subtle color correction. The pink hue cuts the yellow undertone in the powder. This is especially helpful for blondes who already have a lot of yellow tones in their hair. Pink brightens and lifts the skin without having to depend on an orangey bronzer that might not be the right shade for you.

Concealer

The one place yellow tones are appropriate is in concealer. Usually the skin color is a little lighter under the eyes, and when you go too light on the concealer it ends up highlighting dark circles and drawing attention to them—AKA the raccoon look. A yellow based concealer blends into the skin more easily and should disappear to look like you are wearing nothing at all. My Beauty Ammo Kit includes three secret weapons for a flawless eye area.

Next time you are on your way to the overwhelming world of department store makeup counters, head to M.B. York instead and have a color custom blended for just $45. Book and appointment at Jo Paris Salon, 14202 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, AZ 85258.

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Expert Tips and Products for Eye Makeup Application: Brows, Lashes & Lids

Great Brows

Great brows are the first step to gorgeous eye makeup. When properly groomed and filled-in, they lift the eye and make you look years younger. To discover your ideal brow shape, lay a pencil next to your nostril reaching up to your brows. Brows should start at the spot where the pencil hits. Then angle the pencil to the outer corner of your eye to see where your brows should end.

Brow Shaping

It is crucial to get your brows shaped by someone skilled. After having them done professionally, you can tweeze new hairs as they come in. Tweezing is most precise, but I recommend at least some waxing, to remove the fine blonde hairs under the brow. Cleaning these up brightens the eye and helps shadow go on smoother.

Thin Brows

Many people’s brows are too thin and/or short. When thin was in, in the 60s and again in the 90s, women over-tweezed, and now their brows won’t fully grow back. You want them look thicker yet still natural. Many women use a pencil that’s too dark. A taupe pencil works on everyone. Brenda Christian’s Universal Brow Definer is a great choice! Follow this with her Perfect Brow Gel to hold everything in place.

Thick Brows

You may be attached to your full brows, but if they are too full they can look heavy and weigh the eye down. It is important to give brows proper shape and balance for your face.

Proper Eye Makeup Application

Many women don’t know how to do eye makeup. Either they wear hardly any for fear of doing it wrong, or they put on the wrong colors confidently, thinking it looks good. The biggest offense is sparkly, frosty shadow- it makes eyelids look wrinkled. Also, avoid cream shadow – it looks oily on the lids.

Powder Shadows are Best. Here is My Foolproof Way to Apply it:

  • Apply a base/primer on the lid to cover undertone colors and brighten the eye. I use my Camoflauge Eye Disguise Concealer (part of my Beauty Ammo Kit).
  • Apply base eyeshadow. Choose a base color that isn’t too light (think 60s dated light pink) or too dark. It should be close to your skin tone. A pinky-peachy-sunset color is universally flattering. Apply it to entire lid with a fat shadow brush that you use only for base shadow. If you apply other colors with that brush, the next time you apply base shadow the other colors will still be on the brush and the base color won’t go on properly.
  • Apply a crease color to the outer 1/3 of the eye and across the whole crease. Most women apply crease shadow too low, which ends up “closing” the eye. Using an angled shadow brush, sweep it up onto the brow bone, and blend it well after. My favorite crease shadow color is a caramel-light-mocha, more bronze than brown with a hint of peach. It looks great with any clothing, eye color and doesn’t distract from features.
  • Stay away from purple, green and plain brown for crease colors. Most purples make your eyes look red, greens can look dated and browns are just dull.
  • Navy works as liner. Line upper and lower eye with a pencil, then go over it to set it with a dark navy shadow. Use navy with some shimmer for nighttime, but only as liner applied with a stiff tiny angle brush.
  • For night, most women look best in the same shadows they use for daytime, but applied with a heavier hand and always well-blended. For a smoky eye, apply navy to the outer third and around the crease, then add black liner in pencil shadow or liquid. Because pencil liner can be oily, it is important to go back over it with shadow to set it and give more staying power.

No Eye is Complete Without Mascara

One of the best selling mascaras (not naming names!) is one of the worst looking on. I can always spot it on someone – their lashes look like frog legs! It is stiff, clumpy and requires several coats. I also dislike waterproof mascara as it is so hard to remove and so harsh on lashes. Use mascara that stays soft on your lashes. Always do a couple coats, and apply a lash conditioner/thickener underneath to make lashes look fuller, yet soft and conditioned.

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