Deciding on the right hair length is something that many of us struggle with. Sometimes we need to turn to a professional to help us settle on the right length for us. We are all different and factors such as hair texture, face shape and personal style all play roles in determining what works best for each of us. Ishi, of Salon Ishi, doles out some expert advice on the topic.

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The texture of your hair determines the best length for your hair, while your face and body proportions are still the most important factors in getting a style that helps you look your best. Though having long hair may be a style choice, you have to let the quality of your hair rule.

Fine Hair

If you have baby fine, thin hair letting it grow long only draws attention to its quality. The ends get even thinner looking because the volume of space you are filling with your hair is greater. Shorter hair brings out the best quality in fine hair. Many people are disappointed with this type of hair, but from the hairdresser’s perspective it’s great hair to work with. You can do all sorts of things with it that thicker hair just doesn’t allow: It styles easily, and you can get it to move in the style direction you desire. A little holding product is all you will need to keep that style. The finer the hair the shorter the length is a good rule of thumb. Caretrico Treatment Moist Sleek is a great conditioner for fine hair.

Medium Hair

If you have medium texture hair, curly or straight, body proportion and of course your face determine the length that’s best for you. Your hair needs to be trimmed regularly to keep it looking healthy. Just a slight trim to remove dead ends helps in the growing process. And like all textures, your overall hair condition determines the length you can grow your hair.

Thick & Curly

For thick curly hair, longer length adds weight to your hair. The length keeps it from puffing up and makes it more manageable. You need to add styling products to keep the curl in control. Let it dry naturally. Don’t brush or comb through it, as this disturbs the curl pattern and makes it get bigger. Curly hair is the most delicate. It breaks easily so getting to a longer length takes commitment. Proper conditioning is absolutely essential. Caretrico Treatment Slim Through  works wonders on thick curly hair.

The longer you grow your hair the more you have to condition it. Exposure to the elements over time depletes hair’s moisture, making it dry and fly away. The texture of your hair could make it dry and brittle. The more you shampoo the more damage you could do. Rinse, rinse, rinse and conditioning in most cases is the best way to keep your hair in its best condition. Let’s face it, long hair is older hair. If you don’t keep the condition good, you’ll need to trim to get rid of the hair that is not in good condition. Sometimes this will be a dramatic trim, but long, healthy smooth and shiny hair is the only long hair to have.

Most women with curly hair seem to feel societal pressure to straighten it. It’s as if a message has been communicated – if only subtly – that straight hair is preferable. Is curly hair not good enough? I have observed this phenomenon in all types of woman: Caucasian, Afro-Caribbean, Asian, Hispanic…the list goes on.

Strong Anti-curly Cues

This message is so strong that demand has created not only straightening balms, industrial strength blow dryers and flat irons, but also more permanent solutions, like hair straightening processes – some taking 6-7 hours.

I’m OK, You’re OK

As a curly cue myself, it took me a long time to accept my curly situation. I realized I needed to commit to who I was and let my hair be. The truth is that soon as I started going with the flow of my hair texture, working with it instead of against it, my hair looked much better. Finding the right products is a huge piece of the puzzle, especially as we move into summer.

It’s All About the Products

Finding the right products for curls can be akin to a science experiment. You have to be patient and willing to try different combinations of products to see how they work together with your hair. I have tried so many different products in so many different categories! To some extent, I tweak my regimen depending on the weather or season and occasionally due to new product finds.

Here’s my current regimen:

Shampoo Daily

I either use Caretrico’s Type H Shampoo or Philip Kingsley’s Re-moisturising Shampoo. This shampoo can be found in Philip Kingsley’s Smooth & Shiny Jet Set. Make sure to shampoo your scalp ONLY and give yourself a 5 second scalp massage. (or 3 if you have zero patience like me) I recommend trying both for a period of 4 weeks each to see if one is better for your hair. If you like them both, rotate seasonally. You may find that one works better for you in colder weather, etc. Also, depending on where you live, one may react better with your water supply. Here in New York City we have hard water, which is tough on dry, curly hair. In the Caribbean, or other parts of the world where the water is soft, you may find that your hair dries nicer, softer and/or shinier.

Use a Leave-in Conditioner or Leave Your Conditioner In

This particular step is one that many hair care professionals will not advise. But if this is wrong, I don’t want to be right. It works! My favorite, absolutely can’t live without hair product is Caretrico Privy Treatment Slim Through. Ishi introduced this product to me. It is meant to be used as a conditioner or 10-20 minute hair treatment. Since there is not enough moisture for my hair (my hair is coarse, curly and bleached), I actually leave it in, and once applied, run my Du-Boa Scalp Massager through my hair to distribute the product.

Use a Scalp Toner

Right out of the shower, use Philip Kingsley’s Scalp Toner. Healthy shiny hair, starts with a clean scalp.

“Priming” Products

Start with a quick spritz of Vine’s Care Water. This boosts the efficacy of all the styling products that you use subsequently. It also adds moisture, defrizzes and adds volume to fine hair! If its good enough for NASA, its good enough for me!

• Spring & Summer Hair Primers: Arimino’s Bamboo Moisture Veil .
• After Coloring or Going to the Beach: If you have just colored your hair, or plan on going to the beach, use Arimino’s Aqua Moisture for this step. It’s super moisturizing and will get you through the 3 days after color application that tend to leave hair looking its driest. This product will also sand guard your hair at the beach.  (Yes, I am completely OCD about this entire process.)

Styling Products

I use Philip Kingsley’s Curl Activator followed by Ouidad Climate Control Heat and Humidity Drops.

What About Killer Humidity?

If it’s humid out, even with all of the above steps, I always seem to accumulate frizz close to the strands that frame my face. When your hair is almost completely dry (never use a hair dryer) take 5 drops of Cosmetics 27 Huile 27 and scrunch it around the dry areas. I also wrap it around particularly fuzzy curls.

On Hair Masks

Use Philip Kingsley Elasticizer treatment 2 x per week. It makes such a difference. For those with finer hair, and Claire has talked about this before, once a week should do the trick.

Uber Important Note

All these steps should be done separately and you must flip your head over and scrunch to make sure you coat every hair with product.

By: Alyssa Barrie Weiss, Twitter @AlyssaBarrie

With holiday party season just around the corner, you may already be planning how to navigate through your jam-packed schedules and post-work event wardrobe. I know I certainly am! While wearing our favourite dress or something shiny and new may give us a confidence boost, nothing quite lifts the mood like great hair. Here are my top tips to getting your locks in great shape for the winter – whatever your hair texture.

Fine Hair Full of Body

For those with fine hair, bounce coupled with plenty of root volume is a most-wished for style. To achieve this look, shampoo and condition your hair with Philip Kingsley Body Building Shampoo and Conditioner. The shampoo plumps your strands and adds texture, while the lightweight conditioner increases shine and provides just the right amount of moisture without weight. After towel-drying, apply a small amount of Philip Kingsley Preen Cream through your mid-lengths and ends and then spray Maximizer into your roots. The trick to achieving maximum body is to blow dry gently at the root area against the direction in which your hair grows. Finish off by blow-drying your hair upside down for even more oomph. If your hair is fine and slightly dry or processed, use a pre-shampoo conditioner (Elasticizer) once every other week to restore hydration. If very damaged, this should be done once weekly.

Magnificent Medium Hair

Medium textured hair benefits from products that balance the needs of both the roots and dryer ends. Medium processed hair also tends to get dry quickly, so this should be addressed as well for best results! I recommend using a pre-shampoo conditioner (Elasticizer) once a week and shampooing with Philip Kingsley Soft & Shiny Jet Set. If your hair is medium textured and curly, detangling, heat-protective conditioning sprays like Daily Damage Defence will help to minimize breakage and shield your hair from environmental damage (think wind, cold climates and free radicals!) To avoid the dreaded frizz, use products that discourage the absorption of moisture back into the hair shaft. They will be labelled appropriately, but make sure silicone is not one of the first 2 ingredients listed on the back as these can dry your hair out.

Smooth & Shiny Coarse Hair

Thick coarse hair tends to get quite unmanageable, especially in the winter. To achieve a smooth and shiny style, apply Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Extreme 20 minutes to an hour before washing your hair. Use this once a week to really improve manageability and condition, and twice a week if your hair is in real need of some TLC. Follow with Philip Kingsley Re-Moisturizing shampoo and conditioner and then apply Philip Kingsley Smooth Cream to towel dried hair over your mid-lengths and ends. These products are specifically formulated for coarse hair, helping to hydrate each strand, reduce frizz, and also close the cuticle for lasting shine.

Soothe The Scalp

Flaky/itchy scalps are more common in the winter. This can be due to everything from central heating, heightened stress levels, eating dairy rich foods, increased alcohol consumption and washing the hair less frequently. Dandruff isn’t only uncomfortable, but research has shown that it can cause hair loss. To reduce its occurrence, or calm existing irritation, wash with an anti-microbial shampoo and then follow by daily use of a soothing scalp toner. Philip Kingsley Take Comfort Jet Set is a great little kit you can use as needed. If you are prone to dandruff, you should also avoid spicy foods, white wine, champagne and full fat diary, as these can all trigger and worsen it.

Embrace The Turkey

Hair grows its best when supported by a healthy diet rich in essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals, and complex carbohydrates – and luckily this season’s foods pack quite the vitamin punch! Turkey is an excellent source of lean protein, the building block of hair. Stews, roasts and beetroot provide the follicle with essential iron needed for hair cell division. Finally, sweet potato is a fabulous way to up your intake of Vitamins C, A, various B vitamins and fibre! Party nibbles such as nuts, devilled eggs and smoked salmon canapés are also great hair boosters – and as energy to form hair cells drops 4 hours after eating a meal, make sure to grab a few if it has been a few hours since you’ve last eaten.